Weaving History into Fabric and Stage: Ukrainian designer Dariia Bila on artistic legacy, balancing fashion with theatre, and the power of creativity in uncertain times.
For the latest edition of Innovators, Culturalee sat down with Ukrainian fashion and theatre costume designer Dariia Bila. Known for her thoughtful fusion of fashion and performance, Bila opens up about what it means to follow in the footsteps of generations of artists who’ve shaped the world of theatre through costume, including Dali, Hockney and Picasso. She shares how she balances the demands of her clothing line, MYTHEATRE, alongside her work in stage design, and reflects on the vital role creativity plays, especially during times of conflict.
Your work spans opera, ballet, and musical theatre, with productions like Cabaret, La Traviata, Paquita, and Swan Lake under your belt. Can you tell us about your journey into costume design–where did you study, and how did you first find your way into the world of theatre?
My journey into costume and stage design began in Dnipro, the city where I was born and raised. My father was an architect, so from an early age I was surrounded by blueprints, drawings, textures, and spatial thinking–I grew up within compositions. But theatre came into my life like a calling. At seventeen, I designed my first scenography for Christmas Eve at the Dnipro Opera, and that experience shaped everything that followed. I studied at the Dnipro Theatre and Art College, where I was fortunate to be part of their very first class in scenography. From the very first days, I felt I had entered a world that belonged completely to me. It brought together everything I loved: painting, costume, set construction, makeup, footwear, props –every wild idea I had could come to life on stage. Theatre was the only space that could contain all of it–all of me.
You collaborated with director Ivan Uryvskyi on The Golden Hoop (Zolotyi Obruch), which was a visually striking production. What was your creative process like for that project, and how do you approach working alongside directors to bring a shared vision to life?
This was our first collaboration with Ivan, but at some point it started to feel as though we’d already created many things together. Maybe it’s because the process was long and immersive — and I was present almost every day. What fascinated me most were the rehearsals. For me, that’s where everything truly begins. It’s such a delicate, alive process — full of tension, rhythm, pauses, and discoveries.I’m deeply convinced that any stage work — and especially opera — must be a whole. Music, direction, set design, costumes, the performers — everything has to breathe together. If one part pulls away, the harmony collapses. That’s why in The Golden Hoop, as in all my work, I approached it as one unified composition. I spent a lot of time listening to the music, talking with Ivan, watching the performers in motion. That allowed me to be precise — to isolate moments that needed clarity, or contrast, or silence. Sometimes I brought it through color, sometimes through texture. At times I added something contemporary; elsewhere, I erased time altogether. I’m very sensitive to the world — it’s my strength, though not always an easy one. But in theatre, it helps. I often notice what others pass by.
You also run your own clothing brand, MYTHEATRE by Dariia Bila, which draws inspiration from your theatre work. How do you balance designing for the stage with creating fashion collections, and how do the two worlds influence each other?
My brand grew out of a desire to further develop ideas that came to me while working in theatre. Stage work doesn’t always allow me to use fine techniques or fully realize certain concepts, so performances often become the starting point for new collections. Many of my collections are dedicated to my productions, which gives them a special character and theme. At the same time, I treat theatre and fashion as two very different worlds. For me, they are separate projects: in the theatre I work within its specific demands—scale, repetition, and durability—while in my brand I can use delicate techniques and natural fabrics, like fine silk, which wouldn’t be possible on stage.
Many important fine artists, including Salvador Dalí, David Hockney, Pablo Picasso and Edvard Munch, have designed for theatre, creating sets and costumes for opera, ballet, and plays. And visual artists such as Wolfgang Tillmans and Tracey Emin have contributed their unique artistic visions to stage productions, demonstrating a long-standing relationship between visual art and performance. How does your approach and process differ when you are designing costumes for a stage production, to the process of creating a fashion collection?
That’s a beautiful question, because it touches on something I think about often –the line between costume and clothing, theatre and fashion, art and function. My inner process–whether I’m creating a stage production or a fashion collection–is exactly the same. I see the human figure in space. I see the light, the movement, the atmosphere. It always begins with an image that breathes. But technically, these are two completely different worlds. In theatre, costumes are built for endurance: they have to survive rehearsals, quick changes, daily performances, stage rigging, dancing, movement, sweat, and washing. It’s a different kind of thinking –even the hooks, linings, and stitching must be durable, smart, and functional. With my brand MY THEATRE by Dariia Bila, I allow myself another kind of language. These garments would never survive the demands of the stage –they’re too delicate. Here I can work with embroidery, beading, pearls, stones, gilded buttons, silk linings –hours upon hours of handwork using only natural fabrics. These pieces are not made for the spotlight –they are made for life. And life becomes their stage. The light is real. The movement is unchoreographed. And the audience is the world around you.
Your aesthetic is instantly recognizable, with a clear sense of storytelling and drama. How does your Ukrainian heritage and cultural background shape your designs, both in your theatre work and in Mytheare?
My Ukrainian heritage deeply shapes my work. I have often collaborated with Ukrainian dramaturgy, which led me to study the history of our people, our traditions, and costumes. Especially now, during wartime, I feel an even stronger need to explore and embrace my cultural roots. This immersion influences all my projects, giving them depth and authenticity.
As Ukraine continues to face conflict, how have you managed to keep creating and working in such difficult circumstances? What keeps you going?
I never imagined I would live through war–it felt impossible in the 21st century. When it came to our homes, it was a great shock. Each day brings tragedy, destruction, and loss. For me, creativity became a way to cope with overwhelming anxiety. During the full-scale invasion, I launched many projects, transforming fear and stress into theatre, books, and my brand. This process not only helps me but also supports my team in managing the heavy emotional burden.
Do you believe that continuing to create–especially in times of crisis– is an act of resilience and cultural preservation? How important is it for you to fly the flag for Ukrainian creative talent right now?
Creating right now feels like both resilience and responsibility. I treat every project with more care than ever, and I don’t put things off–I try to do them today, and to give my best. Ukrainian art shows the world who we are, and maybe even helps people discover the scale of our culture for the first time. For me, to keep working now is a challenge, but also an honor–to be one of the voices of Ukraine.” Dariia Bila
With so much experience across different forms of performance, what continues to inspire you as a designer–and what stories are you still eager to tell through costume and clothing?
Every project brings something new. I’m lucky to work with powerful texts and amazing Ukrainian theatre directors, and every collaboration inspires me. I always dive deeply into the material, trying to find something fresh–for myself and for the audience. But more than anything, I’m inspired by people. Their courage, their resilience, the way they keep going every day despite the war–that’s what gives me strength and faith, and that’s what keeps me creating.
Follow Dariia Bila here.
